5. The Botsaris tower

The Botsaris family was preeminent among the Souliotes and they claimed some of the most important properties in Nafpaktos. Only a short uphill walk along the lane that runs inside the wall by the Ottoman tower is the so-called Botsaris tower. This building was part of an extensive fortified complex that was originally built in the 15th or 16th century to serve the needs of the town’s Ottoman governor. Notis Botsaris purchased it for 3600 drachmas, a bargain price at the time for such a large building that came with its own independent water supply. Its present appearance is the result of a heavy restoration. Today it houses a museum dedicated to the Battle of Lepanto (1571).

The Botsaris tower was said to be haunted by the soul of the calf that was sacrificed when the foundations were laid. The calf (as might be expected) claimed to be the rightful owner of the house and protected the people who lived there. When the calf was bored in the nighttime, it would leave its crypt and stand beneath the arch throughout the night. Most passersby had nothing to fear from this spectre but woe betide anyone who had evil thoughts or intentions towards the tower’s owners. Nevertheless, everyone should be careful and respectful towards the calf, for if you got scared and started screaming, you could lose your voice forever. When the sun rose, the calf returned to the crypt.